Monastero Sant'Antonio in Polesine

In Ferrara, the Benedictine nuns of Sant'Antonio in Polesine welcome a few guests to their monastery, founded in 1257. Visitors come for the silence, to pray with the sisters, and for the 14th-century frescoes that cover their choir.

Sant'Antonio in Polesine, a monastery on a former island in the Po

A "polesine," in northern Italy, is a strip of land rising out of the water. The one at Sant'Antonio stood where two branches of the Po, the Primaro and the Volano, diverged, just south of early Ferrara. By 1216, a small church dedicated to Saint Anthony Abbot already stood there. Augustinian hermits settled there next, then gave way to the Benedictine nuns.

They arrived in 1257 with Beatrice II d'Este, the daughter of Marquis Azzo VII. Construction of the church began the following year and continued for several decades. Tradition attributes it to a Ferrara architect, Maestro Tigrino. From the 13th century, the cloister has preserved an oak loggia, a rare feature in such a damp plain. The nuns' choir was painted in the 14th century by three workshops, all influenced by Giotto. Almost nothing else from that era survives in Ferrara.

Over time the river receded and the canals were filled in. In 1451, under Borso d'Este, the island was permanently incorporated into the city, sheltered behind new ramparts. It has since been nicknamed "the island that doesn't exist."

The Benedictine nuns of Ferrara, from Beatrice d'Este to today

Beatrice entered religious life in 1254. She attracted so many young women that her first convent, outside the city, was no longer large enough, which led her to Sant'Antonio. She spent the last five years of her life there and died in 1262. The bishop authorized her cult as early as 1270. Today's nuns belong to the Order of Saint Benedict and follow the Rule of Saint Benedict, which calls for holding all things in common and living simply.

They gather in the church for eight offices a day, with Matins at 4:50 a.m. and Compline at 8:45 p.m. Lauds, Vespers, and Mass are sung in Gregorian chant, in Latin, with organ accompaniment. For the other hours, they sing in Italian, in multiple voices, accompanied by the zither.

The rest of the time is devoted to work. Running the house requires attention to the kitchen, laundry, sacristy, and guest house, and the sisters also have workshops for iconography, sacred crafts, and weaving.

A peaceful retreat, right in the heart of the city

To reach the monastery, you leave the main streets and follow cobblestone lanes. Once through the gate, the city falls silent. There are cloisters, gardens, brick walls, and the silence broken only by the bell before each office.

Saint Benedict asks that every guest be received as Christ. The sisters therefore offer a time of silence, recollection, and rest, and they pray for those they welcome, both before and after their stay. You are welcome to join them for the offices, beneath the frescoes of the choir.

How to plan your retreat with the Benedictine nuns of Ferrara

The guest house is intended for those seeking silence and prayer. The sisters are clear about this: they do not accommodate passing tourists, students, or workers in need of a room. Each guest shares in their day of prayer, as much as they are able.

The length of stay, meals and the contribution towards costs are arranged with the sisters when you send your stay request.

What to see around the monastery: Ferrara

Even without staying on site, you can visit the choir and its frescoes with a nun or a volunteer: Monday through Saturday from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m. and from 3:15 to 4:45 p.m., and Sunday afternoon only. The visit also takes in the garden of the first cloister and the chapel where the relics of Blessed Beatrice are kept.

Ferrara itself is well worth exploring. Its Renaissance center is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Este Castle and its moat sit right in the center, near the Cathedral of Saint George. There is also the Palazzo dei Diamanti and the Palazzo Schifanoia, known for the frescoes in its Hall of the Months. The ramparts encircle the old city and can be walked or cycled.

Further east, toward the Po Delta, the Pomposa Abbey is a former Benedictine abbey well worth the detour.